Bonkers in Context

It landed with a thud this morning and I hot-footed it downstairs with joy and anticipation! Yes of course you know what I'm on about  - February’s American Vogue. I mentioned a while ago that senior fashion editor Grace Coddington had left, but that she was still going to do a few stories a year. So, I hadn't expected a change so fast but that's what I felt. It seems that Grace’s absence from the corridors is already being felt. The stories seemed lacking somehow. The models looked less fabulous and the styling just felt less exciting. I'm not going to give up AV because every change (or clean sweep) needs time to bed-in, so all I can say is “Let's watch their space and hope”. To correct myself, Grace in fact did do one story, What To Wear but even so… Maybe it's just a blip!

Hmmm...

I'm not too sure this lacklustre styling is a blip... I've just read the Style magazine from The Sunday Times edited by Donatella Versace and that makes AV look… Beyond! The one saving grace was the socks and heels on the front cover but inside, the fashion styling (not the clothes) was so forced! Horrid!!

Over to How To Spend It - Damian Foxe’s styling and photography - he understands how to give authenticity to fashion, and the clothes always sing to me. The one thing I do agree with is the boot statement. Biker, Bovva or Ankle boot - that is definitely what we'll be wearing with dresses and skirts as well as trousers, coulottes and jeans next autumn, if you’re not already doing so…

Damian does it best.

Did "Marchesa" ever have an original thought?! That is all I'm going to say about their show…

Now a designer who is a Designer is Josef Font of "Delpozo”. Yes I've mentioned him before (in connection with the job vacancy at Dior) but this time I'm talking about his last collection. Some very interesting designs here, and we still watch the Dior empty space with great interest…

Note the belt is tied slightly higher than the waist.

Caramel, Cream, Beige, Light Brown, Light Tan. I've said it before and I'm not afraid to say it again! Eggshell! With white and black…

Provenza Schouler - a look to love!

Although I don't consider Ralph Lauren a "Fashion Designer" (more a lifestyle juggernaut behemoth), plenty of you out there disagree with me and enough it seems to make the collection very relevant.

Fashion... Anyone?

Knees… Yes that's correct - knees. I just watched the best of The Graham Norton Show and as we all know he has (generally) a very top selection of female actors on his sofa. The one frequent style theme (aside from black tux’s) were lightly tanned legs, shin shine and knees. No over the knee skirt lengths here (too much thigh and one could expose lightly-tanned dimpled flesh - never a good look). Just knee length and maybe even a bit longer but somehow perfect to showcase knees. Even the ample actresses seemed to have Boney knees (could this be expert contouring, i.e.: the Masterclass (not) given by KKW on every available website)? You never see them approach the sofa so how their knees look in action I can't say, but seated they always look good. The rise of the Power Knee started (I think) with the Ripped Jean (yes I know a short skirt shows the knees but that's not the point!) it was fine to expose the knee whilst covering the thigh if your jeans were ripped well. Selective exposure is what was required so that's the modern history but seeing as they are now being flaunted as a power point player, maybe in an acceptance speech soon we will hear “…and thank you to the Producer who saw me on the sofa with my boney knees!"

Is that how it's done?

Observation Of The Week: Nothing says breeding like politeness, especially to the people who look after you. So remember, Please and Thank You goes a very very long way. It doesn't matter how much money you have, treat the staff well and they'll always go the extra mile for you.

So I've watched the shows, read the reviews and I'm sorry to say (as I've said before but hoped I was wrong this time) London Fashion Week was not good. And the truth is I don't know why! We certainly have the talent and we have the backing but somewhere in the middle we suffer from the Marchesa Problem. We believe our own Press and this is not just me saying this (other critics too). We appropriate too much from elsewhere without our own content and then we over style it or just try too hard and that's very easy to do. It's like, more is more not less is more. Fashion is one of the hardest businesses to be in and made even harder with the few who are for “Don't Wait Buy Now”. I feel we'll lose a lot of young talent in the next few seasons for just being in the wrong time and the wrong place. Sad. Very sad… Let's see what the French and Italians have to offer (the French have ruled out Don’t Wait, Buy Now). And London - please be true to yourself. Don't ape others!

The one thing that I have noticed in abundance is the happy return of the skirt and jumper combo. In fact, skirts and dresses are really the things to wear, and I tried on the long Row skirt again liking it more each time but in order to buy it, what shoes? In the warmer months, open flat sandals or gladiators. But now - white trainers? I don't know, help!

Alberta Ferretti (at long last) has for me produced something that is youthful and relevant. A few years ago I tried on quite a few of her dresses at her shop in Sloane Street but although obviously younger than I am today, they made me feel older by about 20 years. So not for me. But yesterday's show looked fresh and I even Pinned a couple of looks. Well it's a start, and we all have to start somewhere!!

Alberta, Autumn 2016. Looking good!

Happy Shopping

F   XX

PS: White... tights, anyone?

Does my parting look big in this?

It's been ages and I've missed you, but what with not being well and tons of social... Anyhow, I'm back now so let's look at what's been happening…

It's that in-between time just before spring really takes hold and the winter seems never-ending. A horrid head cold took care of two visits to the theatre, so pyjamas were all that were required. But lots of bedroom shopping, so loads of Pinning and Business of Fashion. And the question I'm asking today is (as Raf's last collection is now in the shops and the signature is moving on) - To Buy or Not. It's like there's a small imperceptible shift and I like to be on the crest and not in the swell. So - there's lots of white or sheer and shorts! No. No shorts for me - that ship sailed many years ago but I did have my hair done in a beach wave. Quite nice, except my Mother doesn't understand it (it’s an age thing!) I tried on a lovely cream/white coat dress with, of course, a pleated hem. Pleats are everywhere!! Hmmm… (What is it with you and white, Francine?) and my cream/white bias cut dress is still there. It's the blonde - it makes me do it. Haven't bought any shoes yet. The pain in my foot whilst in bed, I thought had gone. Ha ha!! (after 2 days in heels). Actually still there a little, but new shoes are flooding in - watch this space. And lots of white… Back to Social. Fur - I’m glad to see I'm not the only one wearing it. My feeling under the weather has curbed my bonkers streak, with a head full of drugs there's no room for creativity! 

Coming to a foot near me soon?...

It's been announced so I can tell you all as well, come 17 May the two charities I favour (one as dinner chair the other as lunch chair) are both having their functions on the same day. Yes, that's what I said as well! I'm really going to have to go into serious training for this!… But my speech making is coming on leaps and bounds! It was my birthday this week and a very close friend gave a dinner for my family and closest friends. I tried to write a speech which I did. It was OK but I really wanted to speak from the heart. So taking note from a friend and thinking about what I wanted want to say, I thought and then spoke. And It came out very well! You know what they say the more you do something the better you get at it, it's true.

My mother and I paid a visit to Dover Street and the wonderful Electra on the third floor. A short while ago I'd popped in and saw a wonderful long skirt by The Row (the Olsen Twins). It's sort of beige with pockets and to the floor, very romantic and the fabric I love. It's a heavy crepe but it's a slight departure and you know me and change... We'll see. It needs a flat day shoe. Again we'll see. No point in rushing this as I don't want to end up with an expensive piece I don't wear. Plus, tried on a Gucci blouse - so beautiful! Where to start…

The Olsen Twins

 Wes Gordon - an American designer. A new name to me too, but I just saw his show on the Internet from NY fashion week... Most shows had a touch of Vestments about them. But something about this young designer caught my eye, will have to watch Wes…

The centre parting in the hair… Just watched the BAFTAs and as no one could make their mind up about dress code, the one thing everyone seemed to agree on was the centre parting (even me, at the moment ) Whether it was sleek or waves the parting was always in the centre. I couldn't understand Kate Winslet's gown. No that's wrong, I could - I just failed to understand the back view. It looked like she was wearing double spanks, and the dress was so tight her backside looked enormous!! Then I remembered the Kardashians and their huge arses, so I put it down to the drugs in my body and not instantly realising that the bigger your Arse, now supposedly the better. Well, that's what I saw… 

Dear Kate - your hair looks wonderful, just check the rear view before leaving the house. you don't want to emulate KKW.

Then I took myself off to see "A Bigger Splash”. I love the cast and the clothes. Unbeknownst to me they were all Dior (Honest Guv, I had no idea!) It's wonderful to see such a beautifully dressed film and as always Tilda Swinton is a joy!

Tilda in Dior - not to be missed!

So keep warm! It's so cold outside and never throw anything away (if you can). Today I'm in ages-old Dolce cream polo with an animal print cami over big tweed trousers and pony skin pointed, almost flat, boots and a large camel coat… Very now. And a centre parting. And the Sun’s shining - must be my day! Always smile and remember black is not a colour or a way of life…

Happy Shopping

 

F XXX

PS: Socks with shoes. As if vindication were needed, today in The Times, Anna Murphy headlined her piece “Socks with Heels: so wrong it’s right”. So to all you naysayers, I’d never steer you wrong.

Your choice...

Art Repeller

Life imitating Art. Yesterday's Art visit took place at Cubitt, a not-for-profit space in the Angel for a show curated by Morgan Quaintance, by the artist Dean Blunt. This show was all about repelling the viewer and an insight into an art movement that I feel is bubbling under at the moment. Look at Banksy and his “Dismaland” - a fairground full of miserable people.

Bemusement Park

We then went onto the Parasol Unit gallery, where the young artist Julian Charriere produced a show that was in part made of Salt blocks. Which is where my story begins. I don't eat any food containing MSG or salt as for me this causes a very bad reaction to my face and body. My eyes and mouth swell, my skin itches, and it induces in me a coma-like sleep that I am unable to combat. So I strictly monitor my food intake - if not quantity, definitely ingredients! So it was. I left the studio fine, but in the knowledge that there were huge amounts of salt in the air. Then it happened! In the car my eyes started to itch, my mouth swelled and my face became uncontrollably itchy. My lunch date was cancelled, an antihistamine taken and my bed in place. I had been repelled by art - amazing but true!

I'm 98% better today, but truly scary. As I write this from my bed so no Pinning, but the thought of Repeller art brings me to Repeller fashion - Man Repeller to be precise. This is a site founded by Leandra Medine producing looks that do exactly what they say on the tin. Man Repeller (or at least that's what she used to do). She's an FRW stalwart and really more into Fashion with a capital F. But back to Man Repeller, which brings the question - who do you dress for? Yourself, your man, other women? All three at different times or none of the above?

A step too far

I wore a totally winning (for me) outfit last week to a ladies lunch. Slightly bonkers with a soupçon of chic. On entering the room someone looked at me and then asked if I thought this outfit looked good! I laughed - yes I thought it looked good. Ah but, she then said, she remembered when I dressed in a more acceptable, normal uniform of trousers, mink jacket, flat Roger Vivier shoes. Time moves on and so does style. Well, my style anyhow… I no longer have a brown straight Bob - I have blond curled messy hair and pale blue nails and a smile. I'm more individual, more daring and more exciting. Less perfect but more perfect! And I wear ankle socks... Lots!! But oh no! What happened as I strutted around in heels of my normal height of 10cm?! My left foot hurt! Oh No!! Is this the end of heels for me?! Oh no can't be. Surely the pain will go away soon and heels will once again be part of my dressing repertoire! Well the pain is still there a little, and I'm worried. I'm still not wearing high shoes and am going to cancel the purchase of last week's high heels (for the moment). 5cm heels may be the order of the day from now on. Is it arthritis? A bunion? Did I bang my foot? Will the doctor have the answers? I hope so…
Some days later the pain is gone!

Reasons to be cheerful. One... Two... Three...

Sorry - you caught me Pinning. I was just looking at the Couture shows and I want to ask a question - maybe you can help me with the answer. What happens to the clothes from the Couture shows that aren't made or sold? And if I stopped eating, could I get into them and then buy them at a huge discounted price? There must be a Bicester for couture, No? Who knows the answer?!

Now we all know that the polo neck is having a moment, so I had my black polos from my Dolce & Gabbana days cleaned and I wore one today. And do you know what? I hated every moment of wearing it! The neck itched so much it was too awful, so I took it off as soon as possible. But of course it looked very current, but this look is not for me. I did try a pink polo cashmere jumper on a few months ago and the exact same thing happened. So there you go - the polo is a style to far for me.

Awards season continues! The SAG awards took place this weekend. Again the line up of awful dresses was on show. I saw two great dressers and that's it! One by Louis Vuitton and the other (purely coincidentally) Dior! Even stranger - they were both covered in sequins and I thought sequins had had their day. But I'm obviously wrong.

The surprise of sequins

Just returned from a fun evening out - the Dior Summer Show and drinks party with all my "Saturday On The Couch" Dior friends! The last Raf collection… So is that good or bad - to buy or not? Lots of Victorian-styled underwear and actually one of the prettiest evening dresses that sort of shimmers, in a pale pink and white chiffon. Except I'm not sure what it would look like with my body in it. I may be just too womanly for it?! Will try and report… I wore a sombre black suit with my black socks and white John Galliano Dior shoes from 8 years ago. Actually the first piece of Dior I ever bought! And still loving them and the best news - my foot didn't hurt! Plus, had loads of complements on my "sock" style. That's great, but I will be taking it easy on my high shoes. Which in turn, has lead me to re-evaluate my shoe buying style…

Lots of talk about the new Maison that's opening in Bond Street in June - I can't wait. Although I'm not sure I'm going to give up Sloane Street so easily. We'll just have to see…

Also talk about the Times article on couture shopping. Who does it, how they do it and is it relevant? OK you know my feeling on this - Couture is so needed! It is the air that ready-to-wear breathes! It is where the high street looks with a half-closed eye. One friend said when I said “This is what I would love to do - buy couture or at least go to the show!" He replied that he thought I already did! Who could possibly think that I buy couture?! But I hope to one day and I would buy daywear more than evening because what could be better than stepping into couture on a daily basis?…

Francine's Fantasy Daywear

Happy Shopping

F   XX


PS: On combining Art with Fashion… What (I wonder) would happen if fashion houses at ready-to-wear levels acted as some galleries do - vetting clients and actually deciding whether or not to sell to them? Could that day ever come? Just a thought…

PPS: I know I'm late with this, but if you haven't already seen it go and see The Big Short!